Fuddland

Skip to site navigation

Category: China

In February 2006 I moved to China. These are some of the things that happened while I was there.

This category also has the following subcategories [number of entries in brackets]:


New year, new weblog entry!

I’ll get back into things slowly with a few photos of my winter holiday to Mount Emei, starting with the candles at Wannian Si — the Temple of 10,000 Years.

Lotus-flower candles Dusk at the Temple of 10,000 Years (万年寺) Buddhist oil-burners

Mount Emei is one of the four sacred mountains of Chinese Buddhism, and there are dozens of temples and statues honouring Puxian and his six-tusked elephant.

Puxian's six-tusked elephant - rear view Puxian's six-tusked elephant Golden Summit at Mount Emei
Tusky grin Golden Summit at Mount Emei

In the dead of winter there were almost no other people staying in the monastaries, and walking through the winter-wonderland forests there were times when we could hear no sound apart from the crunch of the snow under our feet. Even the monkeys were relatively well-behaved.

Monkeys at Mount Emei Monkey at Mount Emei

In: China / Travelling in China

2010 / 01 / 01 – 12:53  | Comment [1]Top


To me, that “When in Rome…” expression is merely meant to encourage you to be a little adventurous. It means, “run naked from the sauna and jump into the freezing waters of a lake in Finland”, not “club a baby seal to death while passing through north-east Canada”.

It is not anywhere near a justification for abandoning the common courtesy and manners that you’ve been brought up to respect, just because you have seen some locals behaving in a way that wouldn’t rub in your home country. So while in China it might be—legally and traditionally—all right to light up a cigarette at the table while others are still eating, when you’re British or from the US, Canada and any of the other countries of the world that have realised just how stinky that smoke is, you should know better and I will give you a withering stare over the top of my fork until you stub that filth out.

Similarly, if you’ve travelled by public transport here, you’ve probably seen some Chinese people listening to music on their mobiles without the use of headphones. This is intensely annoying. You know damn well it is, because when you were living in your homeland, whenever anyone had his or her headphones bleeding music into the surrounding air, you tutted and rolled your eyes and exhaled with exasperation. But the thing you haven’t quite got is, they tend to listen to music like this only on public transport—crowded bus journeys that will be over relatively soon.

So why on Earth you—and I’m now talking to the Western man at the table next to me as I write this—think it’s all right to sit in a cafe, playing music on your laptop speakers when there is already muzak on, is beyond me. It’s easy to tune out the muzak, but as soon as you add your inane tinny beats to the mix, it becomes a spasmodically syncopated annoyance that is impossible to ignore. [And you haven’t even ordered anything to eat or drink.]

Last week I had the perfect storm of North American man who had already proven himself to be the worst speaker of Chinese in the whole of Chinadom when attempting to communicate with his local girlfriend, sitting three feet from me smoking a cigarette, oblivious to where the smoke was drifting [yes, all over me], playing Stand By Me on his iPhone speakers and singing along, in a cafe where people are trying to read, at 2 o’clock in the afternoon. The girlfriend was steadfastly ignoring him. I wish I knew her secret.

In: China / Cultural Experiences

2009 / 10 / 19 – 17:24  | Comment [1]Top


Dog Shoes See, this is what happens when you don’t listen carefully. [Spotted in Carrefour Supermarket’s dog chews section, Chengdu.]

In: China / Sinomoblog

2009 / 10 / 13 – 18:40  | Comment [0]Top


Latest entry in the SQR blog, “Village schools still struggling to be rebuilt.”

After the earthquake destroyed many of the local village schools in Qingchuan County, it was decided that rather than rebuild each small school, a large central school would be built in the nearest town. Unfortunately, for many of these villages the nearest town could be more than twenty kilometres away, along roads that have frequently been blocked by landslides, or made inaccessible by local rivers bursting their banks during the rainy season.

Read the rest of the entry, and note the coded language. For, “People started to wonder if…” read “Everybody knows that…”.

In: China / SQR

2009 / 10 / 10 – 15:33  | Comment [0]Top


Getting to know the streets Chengdu is proving to quite tricky. Normally I have a fairly good sense of direction, but—after being spoiled by the ease of a navigating grid-based city such as Suzhou—I’m finding it difficult to get my bearings on the sprawling, criss-crossing roads of Chengdu.

Compounding the organic layout of the city are two further annoyances. Almost every street is undergoing major roadworks, and every day a different one of them has been cordoned off (slogan: “The inconvenience today is to facilitate tomorrow”). It’s not so much “inconvenient” as “ridiculous” that a taxi going to the supermarket costs twice as much as it does making the return journey.

A more permanent confusion is that the street names in my neighbourhood are all Fang-something-or-other. Fangcao East Road is perpendicular to Fangcao Road, and someone was clearly having a bit of fun labelling the junction “West Fangcao East Road”. And then there are two Fangcao West Roads: First Fangcao West Road and Second Fangcao West Road.

One of the other Fangs (Fanghua Street) is in the shape of a horseshoe: its entrance and exit both intersect Fangcao East Road, which I just know must have led to some confused rendezvous, with both people insisting that they are indeed waiting on the corner of Fanghua and Fangcao East.

But I’m sure it’ll get easier to find my way around over the coming months. Right, time to head off to work. I’m sure my front door is here somewhere…

In: China / Sinonews

2009 / 10 / 08 – 07:59  | Comment [0]Top


The good news: following a bout of pretty heavy rain, the massive scary spider has gone.

The bad news: we don’t know where. Eeeek!

The best news: the kitten is still around.

Cat / bush Cat / box

In: Animals & China / Sinonews & Photos / Sinophotos

2009 / 10 / 04 – 22:35  | Comment [0]Top


Tomy and Guy hair salon

A new venture between the well-known hair stylists and a toy company of my youth?

In: Moblog & China / Sinomoblog

2009 / 10 / 02 – 15:16  | Comment [0]Top


I’ve been living in Chengdu for just over two weeks now, gradually expanding my neighbourhood as I find places to eat, drink and be merry. Our new flat is much larger than the pokey little number we had in Suzhou [but at three-quarters’ the price], with a marvellous-sized kitchen and—being on the ground floor—we even have a good-sized back garden all to ourselves which we’ll be able to enjoy more once we get some furniture out there.

Actually, there are two other reasons why we’re not currently making more of the back garden. The first, main reason is that a cat decided to give birth to her two kittens there several weeks ago, and being feral she’s rather wary of us. Sadly, a few days ago I found that one of the kittens had not survived. [It was noticeably smaller than its sibling and walked with a limp, so was not off to the best start for a feral life.] It was given a simple burial under a nearby bush, two chopsticks marking its resting place. The surviving kitten seems stronger and we hope it will soon be big enough to escape the confines of the garden and be able to fend for itself.

While I was looking for a suitable place to dig the hole I almost walked face-first into the second reason why the garden isn’t my favourite hang-out at present: the most alarming-looking garden spider I’ve seen.

[There’s not much in those pictures to give you a sense of scale, so let me assure you, those are not taken with a macro lens. The spider is about nine feet in diameter. Think Shelob only scarier.]

My role in my new job has been rather undefined so far, but that’s the nature of the beast as the organisation reorientates itself from focussing on emergency relief towards project-based sustainable development. While I get to grips with looking for grants and putting together proposals there are plenty of other things that I’m much more comfortable with for me to do when I need a bit of a break: sorting out the website; organising and verifying the information that is coming in.

Despite being about 1,200 miles closer to Europe than Suzhou, Chengdu is definitely has a more “Chinese” feel about it, being a lot more inland and, moreover, not trying to soak up the overspill of Western influence from Shanghai that Suzhou has been attempting over the last fifteen years. It’s the fifth biggest city in China but, much like London, it doesn’t feel overwhelmingly huge. Yesterday I was taken out of the city for the first time, to see a nursery school only a couple of hours’ drive away in the countryside that had partially collapsed in the earthquake. We are hoping to fund the rebuilding, but the contractors have come back with quotes several times higher than originally estimated. Which reminds me, I must look up the Chinese for “cowboy”, I’ve a feeling it’s going to come in handy over the coming months.

The bigger-than-usual National Day holiday is coming up later this week and we hope to see a bit more of the city—including checking up on the pandas I saw over two and a half years ago.

In: China / Sinonews

2009 / 09 / 29 – 12:57  | Comment [1]Top


She's the one

The public zoo here in Suzhou really needs to work on its publicity. I’ve lived here for over three years and it wasn’t until about two weeks before I was due to leave that I learned that the zoo houses two of only four known remaining Yangtze Giant Soft-Shelled Turtles—possibly the largest species of turtle in the world.

Even more worrying, of the four that are left, three are male. The sole remaining female lives, along with one male, here in Suzhou. The other two males are in Vietnam. A conservation breeding programme is in effect, which I learned about through a public talk given at The Bookworm, but you really wouldn’t know it just from visiting the zoo.

A rare thing indeed This is not the way to treat critically-endangered animals

The water in the turtle pond is part of Suzhou’s network of polluted canals; the pond is open-air and there are no staff on hand to stop idiotic members of the public throwing cakes, biscuits, bread, soft-drinks, as well as spit and litter into the pond; there is construction going on all around, which is apparently going to lead to a much-improved living environment for the turtles, but the stress of all the noise and chaos isn’t really going to help these last two hopes for the species to produce any offspring.

Almost as soon as they were introduced, despite not having seen an opposite member of their sex for a very long time, their instincts took over and the female deposited some eggs in the pitiful sand pit at the top end of their enclosure. Half were collected by the conservation staff and placed into three different incubators [three different temperatures], and half were left in the sand to develop naturally. But none survived.

The female is around 80 years old and the male could be 100, or perhaps older, and if their life-expectancies are similar to other species of turtle then they may only be in middle-age. Turtles have been known to reproduce virtually up until they die of old age, so there may still be a chance that future batches will be more successful, but so little is known about this particular species that they’re not even sure if they are giving them the right diet—although it’s a safe bet that biscuits and spit are not exactly part of a natural diet.

For political reasons, there doesn’t seem to be much chance of the other two males being given a shot at becoming fathers anytime soon—at least, not through natural means. At the talk, the possibility of using artificial insemination was discussed and is an option they are considering. It’s worth mentioning that just a couple of years ago, there were six of these turtles left, but two died while the conservation programme was in the process of being set up. If the female passes away just as suddenly, that’s it: another extinction, right under our noses. Perhaps being well aware of her critical importance, the smaller female stayed well away from the public end of the pond, but the big male swam over and gave us a chance to see this incredibly rare creature from just a few feet away.

One of three One of three

In: Animals & China / Cultural Experiences & Indexed

2009 / 08 / 09 – 11:58  | Comment [4]Top


As well as enjoying the delicious dishes, we played a few non-drinking games at my leaving dinner.

Don’t guess the number

Person X [secretly] writes down a number between 1 and 100 [not inclusive]. The players take it in turns to guess what the number is—or rather, what it isn’t. After each guess, if it isn’t the number on the paper, the guessing range is narrowed by whatever the most recent guess was.

For example, suppose the number to guess is 76. Player A [wrongly] guesses 23. Now the guessing range is narrowed to between 23 and 100. Player B guesses 87, so now the range is 23 to 87. And so on, until someone lands on 76 and has to perform a forfeit. [In our case, the forfeit was eating one of the hot chillies.]

Handy hint: Chinese people are quite superstitious about their numbers so if you want the round to be over quickly, write down the lucky 8 or 88. If you want it to last for a long time, write 4, 14 or 44, all of which would be considered unlucky.

Lip-reading

A variation on the Telephone Game [which is the less offensive name for what the British call Chinese Whispers]. The first person thinks of a word or phrase and mouths it to the person next to them, without the other players being allowed to see. They are only allowed to mouth it twice. The phrase gets passed around the circle until the last player says what he/she thinks it is.

This game is probably quite boring in English, but since Chinese is a tonal language, it is a lot harder to read what is being said from the shape of the mouth alone. When it was my turn, I started with “tiger”, which morphed into “rat” along the way and finally emerged as “teacher”.

In: China / Cultural Experiences

2009 / 08 / 07 – 18:07  | Comment [0]Top


Last Sunday I had my farewell dinner with some of my colleagues from Longwin. This is what we ate:

泡椒凤爪 (Chicken Feet with Pickled Peppers)

泡椒凤爪 (Chicken Feet with Pickled Peppers)

干锅花菜 (Cauliflower Dry-pot)

干锅花菜 (Cauliflower Dry-pot)

牛肉豆花羹 (Beef and tofu soup)

牛肉豆花羹 (Beef and tofu soup)

干烧香辣虾 (Spicy fried dried shrimp)

干烧香辣虾 (Spicy fried dried shrimp)

水煮鱼片 (Boiled fish in chilli sauce)

水煮鱼片 (Boiled fish in chilli sauce)

香辣馋嘴蛙 (Sautéed Bullfrog in Chilli Sauce)

香辣馋嘴蛙 (Sautéed Bullfrog in Chilli Sauce)

剁椒鱼头 (Steamed Fish Head with Diced Hot Red Peppers)

剁椒鱼头 (Steamed Fish Head with Diced Hot Red Peppers)

Yum! [Except for the chicken feet. I didn’t sanction that order.]

In: Food and Drink & China / Teaching in China / Longwin Modern English

2009 / 08 / 06 – 13:12  | Comment [3]Top


Way back in the mists of I-first-got-to-China time, I said that one of the reasons I had decided to broaden my cultural horizons was a desire to move into the non-profit field. After getting a bit stuck in a rut, thanks to some gentle nudging by Mary, about a year ago I started on a concerted effort to save up a good wodge of cash in order to support myself for a stint of volunteering.

During my travels in Yunnan I had come across a flyer for an organisation that runs a development worker training programme at the Yunnan Institute of Development [YID] in the small city of Yuxi, which sounded right up my alley, so that was where I set my sights. However, as the months went on it became clear that the prospects of employment for Mary in Yuxi were pretty much zero, and we began to wonder about other options. [But that was really my only reason for looking for other ideas. I’ve been in touch with the woman who runs the programme at the YID, and it really does look worthwhile.]

Around the same time, my friend Peter—co-owner of the Bookworm chain—had talked to me about moving to Sichuan and coming to work for his NGO, Sichuan Quake Relief [SQR], which he had founded with a chap called Mark the day after the earthquake struck last year. It was initially involved in the emergency relief efforts, but a year later the focus is shifting towards project-based rebuilding and development work, for which he needs someone to research and write grant proposals in order to secure funding from domestic and overseas organisations, as well as be involved in the operation of those projects. So from September, that someone is going to be me: relocating to Chengdu, capital of Sichuan, doing full-time, practical, real-life work, trying to help rebuild the lives of the millions who are still living in tents, on basic food allowances; still suffering from aftershocks and landslides that hamper their efforts; living in even worse poverty than they were before May 12, 2008. It’s going to be quite the challenge.

In: China / SQR

2009 / 07 / 28 – 16:51  | Comment [0]Top


Six things: Coffee, drinks, cakes, relax, music, bread.

My new favourite sign in Suzhou, at a new Italian cafe. I like to imagine the meeting:

Right, what do we sell? Coffee … er, other drinks … ooo cakes, yes! What else? ‘Relax’? We don’t sell ‘relax’. That’s a verb! Oh all right, we sell relax. And …? Music? Again, we don’t so much sell that as play-the-same-mp3s-over-and-over. Okay, I suppose that’s all … Wait! Bread!

In: Moblog & China / Sinomoblog

2009 / 07 / 26 – 10:51  | Comment [2]Top


I had oh-so-very high hopes for this eclipse.

My attempts at viewing the Cornish Eclipse in the summer of 1999 were thwarted by overcast skies, so I was quite excited to learn that the path of the total eclipse of the century was passing straight over Suzhou. I decided that heading out to Tianping Hill would give me a good vantage point, surrounded by trees below and noticeably less pollution than the downtown area.

But, as much of the rest of the eclipse-watching world found, when the day arrived there was nothing to be seen but an overcast sky. Ever the optimist, I got together my camera, tripod and newly-purchased solar filters and was soon making the ascent in the light drizzle.

About halfway up, the skies opened and the rain went from drizzle to downpour in a matter of minutes. In my morning grogginess I’d forgotten to pack an umbrella, but a passing pair of students sidled up to me and offered me one as they huddled under another. It soon became obvious that the Sun was never going to be visible, so I thanked the two girls for their loan and headed back down to catch the bus into town. I was still on the bus when the darkness descended, which was impressively swift and all the more eerie for the torrents of rain that were hammering the roof and roads.

Still, at least I got a couple of decent shots of the lotus pond at Tianping Hill before the rain started … and there’s still next January to look forward to.

Pink lotuses I Pink lotuses II

In: China / Sinonews & Photos / Sinophotos

2009 / 07 / 24 – 23:08 Top


Chinese 'Star Trek' movie poster

We went to see Star Trek last night—excellent stuff, probably going to watch it again tonight. But one thing that doesn’t sit quite right is the Chinese name: the poster says Xīngjì Míháng 星际迷航. Now xīngjì means “interstellar”, which is fine, but míháng seems to mean “to get lost”. So the title of this film out here is “Lost in Space”. Er, wrong show guys.

In: China / Sinomoblog

2009 / 05 / 24 – 17:44 Top


As I made my way into the empty meeting room at just before half-past two to observe the three-minute silence, I thought about telling my colleagues what I was doing, but decided against it: it’s a personal choice, and I was interested to see how many people actually stopped work to mark the first anniversary of China’s worst natural disaster for thirty years.

I was surprised to find that no-one else stopped what they were doing. Not in my office, nor on the street below. I had been told that the city air-raid siren would sound at 2.28pm, lasting for the full three minutes, but over the sound of car horns and construction, I could only faintly hear the siren carried on the wind from the downtown area a few miles away. Either the Industrial Park area, where I work, doesn’t also have one, or for some reason it was not used. From the 28th floor I looked up and down the street, into the construction sites and at the cars and buses, to see if I could spot anyone who had downed tools or pulled over, but people were seemingly oblivious. I asked several [Chinese] friends in other offices in the area if their companies, or even they themselves, observed the silence, but no companies did, and most individuals didn’t either.

This is not to say that the nation is at all unsentimental about the tragedy: there are plenty of events taking place all over the nation to commemorate the earthquake, not least a day of specially-dedicated television. Given that many of the office blocks around here shook with the force of the quake, 2000 miles from the epicentre, I just thought more people here would mark it too.

In: China / Cultural Experiences

2009 / 05 / 12 – 14:42  | Comment [0]Top


A man picking up the last of his noodles from the road and carrying them back to his bike

My taxi had to wait [horn honking the entire time, naturally] which this chap scooped up the noodles that had spilled off the back of his bike. They were uncooked, and I can’t help but worry about where he was taking them. This street has a plethora of restaurants, some of which I have been known to frequent in the past. Rice for me from now on, I think!

In: Moblog & China / Sinomoblog

2009 / 05 / 07 – 21:11  | Comment [0]Top


I quite often have to talk to students about Western dining habits—the differences, the etiquette, and so on—and one of the phrases that appears in their vocabulary list is, “going Dutch”. The phrase always requires an explanation, after which the students generally nod and say that in China it is called “AA”.

The term “AA” has puzzled me since I first heard it, being made up of English letters as opposed to Chinese characters, and no-one seemed to know what it actually stood for. In fact, most of them had never even thought to wonder.

“What does ‘AA’ mean?” I would ask.

“Go Dutch,” the reply would come.

“No, I’m not testing you on something you just learned. I mean, what does it stand for?”

“Oh … we don’t know.”

They wouldn’t even guess, and I was similarly stumped. [I could see no obvious connection with alcohol or automobiles.] Until, that is, yesterday, when a student was finally able to put me out of my misery.

As anyone who has learned a language while living or working alongside its native speakers will testify, one’s vocabulary can have some fairly eclectic entries. I knew how to say “mobile phone charger” in Chinese before I learnt the colours of the rainbow, simply because buying a new one was more of a priority than shopping for oil paints. [And when I do get around to building up a palette, it will probably conspicuously lack a purple, because I have immense trouble pronouncing that particular hue.]

And so it was that, somehow, a student who earlier in the class had no idea what “to go on a date” meant, was able to inform me why “AA” means “to split the bill”: it stands for “algebraic average”, which is what most people mean when they say, “take the average”, but in the world of maths is more commonly called the mean.

This of course answers another question that I frequently get asked, namely why—given my background—I’m not teaching mathematics in China. Any country that adopts a mathematical phrase into its everyday language clearly doesn’t need any help from me.

In: China / Chinese [Language] & Indexed

2009 / 05 / 07 – 15:22 Top


This Friday, May the 1st, is China’s Labour Day—a national holiday to celebrate the toils of the worker, so our school is closed for the day. But since Friday is one of my usual weekly days off, I asked if I could choose which day I would like to have off in lieu, as we have done in the past when a public holiday falls on a regular day off.

“Oh, you’ve actually already had it,” came the reply. “Remember during Spring Festival when we gave everybody a four-day break instead of the usual three? That’s because we ‘borrowed’ one day from Labour Day.”

In other words, the company took it upon themselves to move our public holiday by three months and tack it onto another one. Whilst the one-day-longer Spring Festival break was of course welcome, extending the period that employees have to go until their next long weekend is not so good for morale. And since the school is still closed for this Labour Day, the poor people who don’t usually have Fridays off have to actually make up for the closure by working one of their days off during the next couple of weeks. As you can imagine, there are some unhappy mutterings going on below management level.

Still, it could be worse. Last month the local government in Guangdong province announced plans to return the Labour Day holiday to its former status as a week-long public holiday [a so-called Golden Week], in order to stimulate the local economy. The plan was initially approved by the Central Government and people duly went ahead and booked trips lasting most of the week. But when several other regions also announced plans to follow suit, the Central Government reneged and Guangdong was forced to scrap its official plans. But it looks as though lots of people are still going ahead with their trips, presumably either taking a couple of days of their annual leave, or perhaps even asking for unpaid leave.

Now I’m not an economist, but it seems to me that officially announcing a public holiday, only to cancel it after people have already made plans, is not only going to make people a bit annoyed [since when has that ever affected a policy change decision?], but more importantly is actually going to negatively affect the local economy, as people who go ahead with their trips are forced to save even more that usual to make up for spending-without-earning. I’m sure there have been plenty of unhappy mutterings down in Guangdong this past month or so too.

In: China / Teaching in China / Longwin Modern English & China / Sinonews

2009 / 04 / 29 – 14:53  | Comment [0]Top


Our building is having its windows washed this week—by men hanging from single, very old-looking ropes, with no back-up line. Here’s what that looks like from the 28th floor.

A man hanging outside an office-block 28th-floor window Two men hanging outside an office-block 28th-floor window

In: China / Cultural Experiences

2009 / 04 / 27 – 23:09  | Comment [2]Top


One of the niggling differences in working in China is the way you receive your salary: unlike in the UK, where you simply give your bank’s sort-code and account number to the finance department, in China your company decides on one particular bank to use, and the employees must all open an account with that bank if they want to be paid.

And so I am now a card-carrying customer of the Agricultural Bank of China, famed for the largest bank robbery in the history of the country. Since the four largest banks in China are all state-owned, there seems to be very little to distinguish them, and I’m not entirely sure why my company opted for this bank down the street when there’s a branch of Bank of China in the same building as our office. Perhaps it’s because of the 5% discount account-holders enjoy at the nearby Subway sandwich shop.

In: China

2009 / 04 / 18 – 11:48  | Comment [4]Top


It’s been over about three years since I wanted to transfer money from here back to the UK, so I did a quick search for what information I needed to provide to the bank and was pleasantly amused to find my own post about it come back as one of the first hits. Armed with the relevant details, I went to my local Bank of China branch and told the nice lady at the Foreign Currency Transfer desk what I wanted to do.

Unfortunately I hit a bit of a snag because, as I was informed, a foreigner is only permitted to transfer up to US$500 worth of RMB per day. The amount I wanted to transfer was a bit more than that, and I didn’t really want to be going to the bank every day for the next couple of weeks, paying bank changes every time, so I asked if there was a way around it.

The first suggestion was to get an official tax statement from my company declaring that I’d paid the relevant taxes on my income. Whilst I have indeed been paying said taxes [honest gov’nor], I’ve tried getting the official form in the past and the best my company offered me was a spreadsheet printout stamped with the company seal of officialness. I showed it to the nice lady and she said it wasn’t the right thing. I was just about to leave and steel myself to try and extract the official official tax statement from my company, when the nice lady had another idea.

Chinese citizens are apparently allowed to transfer up to US$50,000 a year out of the country, and it turns out they can do this on behalf of a foreign friend. Naturally I can’t vouch for the true legality of this, but I was reassured by the nice lady that no trouble would befall the Chinese citizen in question provided they did not exceed the yearly limit. In that case, I said, could she be my friend for the afternoon and help me transfer the money on my behalf? [Having been asked countless times by complete strangers here if we can be friends, I had no qualms about returning the request on this occasion.] But she said that as a bank employee, she could not help me.

So I made a call to my very good friend and colleague [who happened to be just upstairs in my office], and within a few minutes the transfer process was underway. For some reason you have to state the amount you want to transfer in the destination currency, even though you only really know for certain how much money you have in RMB. There was a brief period of mild farce where every time they double-checked with me the amount I wanted to transfer, the exchange rate had changed and we had to recalculate that I had enough in my bank account to cover it. But it was all relatively simple to get done, and two days later the money had arrived in my Smile bank account.

By the way, my friend and I had to sign a total of four forms to complete the money transfer. When I arranged to get a throwaway pay-as-you-go SIM card for my Dad during his week-long visit, I had to sign six different pieces of paper. But at least the mobile phone company gave me a two free toiletry bags containing a toothbrush, toothpaste and a face towel for my troubles. The bank couldn’t even copy my name out of my passport correctly when I first opened the account, so it was particularly satisfying to finally close my—or rather, Davind’s—account with them.

In: China & Indexed

2009 / 04 / 17 – 10:45  | Comment [1]Top


With new-found confidence stemming from a combination of a macro lens, a photography partner or two [in the form of my Dad and my friend Lauren] and generally getting over my previous reticence, I have recently taken a great deal of candid and not-so-candid photos of people going about their daily business here in Suzhou.

Any guilt one feels about taking photos of people without their knowledge, let alone permission, is somewhat negated by the countless occasions on which I or foreign friends have been not-so-surreptitiously snapped while we’re having dinner or just walking by.

Cooperation Here fishy, fishy, fishy Busnap
Damn, I forgot my fake, unconvincing sugar lumps Walkie-talkie Pruning At a crossroads Subtle wardrobe Streamers Bull Daily news Group photo

In: China / Sightseeing & Photos / Sinophotos

2009 / 04 / 06 – 14:28  | Comment [1]Top


My Dad recently visit me for a week in Suzhou. He lent me his macro lens while he was here. Now I wants one.

The Twin Pagodas (双塔)
Bare bonsai Red-leafed bonsai

In: China / Sightseeing & China / Sightseeing & Photos / Sinophotos

2009 / 04 / 05 – 08:19  | Comment [2]Top


Here’s a quick tip on how to impress the Chinese with your knowledge of their language: learn how to write the character for die [as in the singular of dice]. Some of the classroom activities I like to do involve use of a die to introduce an element of excitement into the lesson [this sounds sarcastic but believe me, telling a group that the next person to roll a 6 has to give a one-minute talk, then watching as the tension mounts on each throw is quite amusing].

Invariably someone will point at the die and ask what it’s called in English, and I have now learnt to lean back and wait for them to make a note of it, because when they come to writing down the Chinese word, it suddenly occurs to them that they have no idea how to. They know how to pronounce it all right, “shǎizi”, so whispers go around the group, but generally, hardly ever is there someone in the group who knows how to write it.

Now before we all leap on our herd of high horses and moan about how difficult the Chinese language must be if the native speakers can’t even remember how to write it, there are currently over ten million pages indexed by Google that say “calender” not “calendar”, to cite just one of the 100 most commonly misspelled words.

So you might imagine that the character for die is one of the more complex ones, but in fact the “shǎi” contains only 14 strokes of the pen, the “zi” only 3, and its overall appearance is “modular” enough to make it quite easy to break down and memorise. So here it is: 骰子. I really don’t have any insights as to why it’s so hard to remember, beyond the explanation I generally get from students: “Oh, we don’t like to gamble.” Learn to write it and amaze your Chinese friends—at least until they challenge you to write anything else.

[Aside: the most stroke-laden characters I can find are [] and [nàng], both of which are made up of 36 individual strokes. The former means, “the appearance of a dragon walking”, and the latter means, “to speak with a nasal twang”.]

In: China / Chinese [Language]

2009 / 03 / 14 – 15:05  | Comment [3]Top


Unlike a lot of the foreigners living here, who either hop in taxis or buy themselves a nifty scooter or electric bike, my primary mode of transportation is the public bus, which I take to and from work every day….

Read the rest of “Busted”…

2009 / 03 / 12 – 15:24 | Comment [2]Top


After arriving in China and starting to converse with a few of the English-speaking locals—whether it be for teaching or a real job-type job—you will, without any doubt, be greeted with a variation on the following phrase: Hi, how about…

Read the rest of “How is your how about?”…

2009 / 02 / 27 – 12:31 | Comment [2]Top


Signs on display in each and every carriage of the metro train in Nanjing: Please don’t chase and create a train disturbance. No spitting. Stay clear from tracks. Please offer your seat to those who need it. No swinging. No…

Read the rest of “No anything”…

2009 / 02 / 23 – 16:43 Top


Today marks the third anniversary of leaving my home country to spend a year in China, and a quick look outside my window confirms that, yes indeed, I am still here. If I wasn’t a mite busy today I’d take…

Read the rest of “Tri-sinoversary”…

2009 / 02 / 17 – 14:28 | Comment [2]Top


A colleague sent me the following message via IM earlier today: 藕买达零, 买低儿, 爱辣无油, 脒死油, 脒死油馊麻雀, 爱旺特吐磕死油, 爱你的油, 嗷, 抗氓被逼! 抗氓抗氓情人节哈皮! There are plenty of characters there that I don’t recognise, and of those that I do know, the context…

Read the rest of “Phonetic code”…

2009 / 02 / 14 – 12:50 Top


Subtitle: The Evil Scary Monkeys of Lu Shan Look at this pathetic little fella: Feel sorry for him, don’t you? You’d like to coddle and cuddle and love him for ever and ever, wouldn’t you? He’s just hungry and wants…

Read the rest of “Christmas in Lu Shan (Part III)”…

2009 / 02 / 12 – 14:13 Top


In case anyone is thinking that it’s a bit late to be writing about how I spent my Christmas, I should mention that today my company finally took down the seven-foot-tall Christmas tree that has been mildly annoying me with…

Read the rest of “Christmas is officially over”…

2009 / 02 / 11 – 15:33 Top


There are historic sites aplenty to be seen in Lu Shan and, unlike many of China’s mountainous holiday destinations, they do not all comprise seemingly identical Buddhist temples with a huge bucket of incense burning outside. They do, however, have…

Read the rest of “Christmas in Lu Shan (Part II)”…

2009 / 02 / 10 – 16:10 | Comment [2]Top


People transplanting trees and flowers is a familiar sight as Spring approaches and the city artificially increases the rate of blooming, but I think this chap has started a little early….

Read the rest of “Tree delivery”…

2009 / 02 / 09 – 15:25 Top


For a different sort of Christmas we headed out of town for a few days of peace and quiet in the pine forest-covered rocky mountains of Lu Shan. This area was created for and by the wealthy foreigners who…

Read the rest of “Christmas in Lu Shan (Part I)”…

2009 / 02 / 07 – 22:15 Top


According to legend, a terrible monster called Nian came on the first day of every year, to devour livestock, crops, and the odd village child or three. To appease the beast, people laid food outside their doorways in the hope…

Read the rest of “Nian, again”…

2009 / 01 / 30 – 14:16 | Comment [3]Top


Not yet owning a decent carry-case, as well as not yet being aux fait with the inner [and outer] workings of it, I decided not to venture out with my new camera on New Year’s Eve and capture the fireworks—as…

Read the rest of “It’s been a punny year so far”…

2009 / 01 / 27 – 17:33 | Comment [1]Top


I had oh-so-very high hopes for the first photo. I’d been wanting and planning and saving to buy a new camera for quite a few months now, so I knew it had to be something special. Maybe I’d head out…

Read the rest of “IMG_0001”…

2009 / 01 / 27 – 10:44 | Comment [1]Top


Occasionally I get asked to help with some simple Chinese-to-English translations for company signs and notices, which to be honest I am somewhat reluctant to do—as every ex-pat will testify, half the fun of living out here is smirking at…

Read the rest of “We don’t stand in your toilet, so…”…

2009 / 01 / 19 – 16:02 | Comment [2]Top


The roof at Shanghai’s relatively-new South Railway Station is pretty impressive—apparently it’s the world’s largest transparent circular roof, as well as being the world’s first circular railway station. The latter fact, whatever it really means, makes me imagine the trains…

Read the rest of “Shanghai South Railway Station”…

2009 / 01 / 13 – 13:19 Top


Looks like I was too hasty in my applauding of the understatedness of the restaurant’s choice of Christmas decoration: they’re now going for the “more is more” school of thought. Oh and, shear … sheep … wool … okay, a…

Read the rest of “Spreading the Christmas shear”…

2008 / 12 / 22 – 10:18 Top


Christmas decorations in China, just like in the rest of the Christmas-recognising world, generally fall into two categories: cheap and tacky or over-the-top, as shown by the two examples below. The owners of the office block where I work managed…

Read the rest of “A different kind of Christmas tree”…

2008 / 12 / 21 – 21:48 Top


Although we do already have a traditional tacky foot-tall plastic tree, I hope you all agree that there’s no way I could not buy this: Especially when it’s apparently as easy as “1, 2, 3, tree.” I have opened, planted,…

Read the rest of “Four steps to Christmasness”…

2008 / 12 / 16 – 08:20 | Comment [1]Top


I see this clothing shop every day when I wait for the bus, and every time I’m standing there I read the name in a kind of echoey voice: Bur-bur-bur… lur-lur-lur… oo-oo-oo … ee-ee-ee. [In my head, I hasten…

Read the rest of “Seeing bblluuee”…

2008 / 12 / 15 – 10:10 Top


Although I’m sure it makes a very pleasant day out at most times of the year, there’s really only one time of year that, if you happen to be in the area, you should make an extra effort to…

Read the rest of “Seeing red”…

2008 / 12 / 11 – 17:22 Top


With half a billion or so potential reserves, China really has no need for a national service, but a couple of high-school-teacher friends of mine still had a week off work recently thanks to their students all taking part in…

Read the rest of “You’re in the army for now”…

2008 / 11 / 18 – 17:19 Top


Longwin Modern English took a novel approach to getting rid of a foreign teacher that they didn’t want working for them. He was quite the sleazebag and had a nasty habit of cracking on to the young Chinese women who…

Read the rest of “Ousting an unwanted foreign teacher”…

2008 / 11 / 18 – 16:12 | Comment [0]Top


Every now and then I get to hold an open “Culture” class in which I choose some aspect of foreign culture around which to shape discussion activities. Since yesterday’s class fell on the eleventh of the eleventh, I took the…

Read the rest of “Lest they forget”…

2008 / 11 / 12 – 09:10 | Comment [1]Top


One aspect of the English training centre business out here that I’ve never been entirely comfortable with is what could be described as a form of corporate spying: employees of one training centre pose as potential students at another, to…

Read the rest of “Spies … like us?”…

2008 / 11 / 04 – 14:03 Top


Despite repeated offers, this boy didn't want to go down the drain too. Coward….

Read the rest of “Drain”…

2008 / 11 / 01 – 10:10 | Comment [2]Top


A surprising member of the magazine rack at one of the training centres where I do some part-time work. I’m assuming it was snuck into the country in someone’s luggage….

Read the rest of “Odd one out”…

2008 / 10 / 31 – 10:40 | Comment [1]Top


On sale at the local supermarket—that's your bog-standard, huge, foreign-owned supermarket, not some small speciality fishmonger—a couple of whole hammerhead sharks, about three feet in length. Anyone got any tasty recipe suggestions?…

Read the rest of “Hammered”…

2008 / 10 / 18 – 19:45 | Comment [1]Top


Perhaps due to its location—fairly far removed from other famous tourist destinations or ports of trade [as well as it being in one of the poorer provinces in China]—while the local government seems to have gone some way towards designating…

Read the rest of “The old streets of Bozhou”…

2008 / 10 / 16 – 14:11 Top


In stark contrast to the imperious Cao Cao, one of his contemporaries and another resident of Bozhou was the legendary physician Hua Tuo. [And when I say “legendary”, I of course mean, “I’d never heard of him until I went…

Read the rest of “Hua Tuo”…

2008 / 10 / 11 – 10:16 Top


One of the other claims-to-fame for the city of Bozhou is as the present-day form of the birthplace of the warlord Cao Cao, who lived during the time of the Three Kingdoms around the second and third centuries. [This period…

Read the rest of “Cao Cao”…

2008 / 10 / 09 – 15:05 Top


Last week was China’s National Day holiday, and thanks to some fortuitous timing of the calendar I ended up with a whopping eight consecutive days off, the better part of four of which Mary and I spent in the little-known…

Read the rest of “Not a spoonful of sugar in sight”…

2008 / 10 / 07 – 10:15 | Comment [3]Top


Today farmers and families here are celebrating Zhongqiu Jie—Mid-Autumn Festival. The celebrations have many aspects, but the most important of these seems to be the eating of moon cakes. The nomenclature is a little misleading as the cakes can…

Read the rest of “Mid-Autumn Festival”…

2008 / 09 / 14 – 16:50 | Comment [4]Top


Another short-term job I took on was at an IELTS summer school. For those that don’t know, IELTS is a internationally-recognised standard English level certification that many institutes require as part of their entry criteria. The exams focus on one-on-one…

Read the rest of “Work shift (Part II)”…

2008 / 08 / 19 – 11:31 | Comment [3]Top


I’ve just started working at the Longwin Modern English training centre 环亚琅文现代英语培训 in Suzhou, under the management of Michael Hsu. So far, everything seems okay….

Read the rest of “Longwin Modern English, Suzhou”…

2008 / 08 / 10 – 10:08 | Comment [0]Top


After having a pretty light schedule for the last six months or so, it’s been a fairly busy month or two as I picked up several part-time teaching gigs, mostly at summer schools for kids and teens. With the more…

Read the rest of “Work shift (Part I)”…

2008 / 08 / 05 – 09:31 Top


After my comments on the conduct of the public when boarding the underground, in the interests of balance I took a photo of something I see every Saturday morning on my walk to teach: a long queue of people…

Read the rest of “Booklovers”…

2008 / 08 / 02 – 13:18 Top


The only Western-style toilet in this public bathroom is used as a storage area. As an aside, the Chinese for London 伦敦 is a homophone for “in turn, squat” 轮蹲….

Read the rest of “We don’t need no Western toilets, steenkin’ or otherwise”…

2008 / 08 / 01 – 11:53 Top


Indicating where to stand as the subway train pulls up, following well-established international norms: passengers wanting to board should wait on either side, in order that passengers wanting to disembark can exit along the centre—with handy footprints just in…

Read the rest of “Possibly the most ignored sign in China”…

2008 / 08 / 01 – 10:29 Top


For China's nouveau riche, perhaps….

Read the rest of “No tat here”…

2008 / 07 / 31 – 22:06 Top


Summer has hit Suzhou with its full force, which means several days of sweltering heat [pushing 40°C] followed by torrential rainstorms which, although a welcome break from the sun, turn the streets into dirty rivers and bring sticky humidity…

Read the rest of “Hainan”…

2008 / 07 / 27 – 19:59 Top


For my Chinese homework last week, I had to write out one of my favourite recipes from my home nation. Seeing as though the lack of an oven out here prevents me from enjoying a good old home-made Shepherd’s Pie,…

Read the rest of “Chilli Chilli Wok”…

2008 / 06 / 02 – 10:18 | Comment [4]Top


Waiting for the bus after teaching the other day, I suddenly noticed a small family of goats munching on the hedges of the central reservation. I really couldn’t have better planned the sudden appearance of the goatherd. [View the Runaway…

Read the rest of “Two kinds of kid”…

2008 / 04 / 16 – 21:31 | Comment [1]Top


One of the must-dos in the province of Guangxi is a leisurely cruise down the Li River from Guilin to Yangshuo, taking in 83 kilometres worth of the renowned karst scenery. The weather was not totally on our side, presenting…

Read the rest of “The Li River and the countryside of Yangshuo”…

2008 / 03 / 30 – 09:25 | Comment [1]Top


Fifth flat in just over two years, I’m getting good at this packing lark. My new place is much more convenient for work and studying at the university—I can walk to either in under half an hour—and, much more…

Read the rest of “Moved … yet again”…

2008 / 03 / 24 – 21:56 Top


Tearing ourselves away from the beauty and tranquility of Duoyishu and the surrounding countryside of Yuanyang was hard, but we also wanted to go and see the famous scenery of the Li River in Guangxi, which meant we had to…

Read the rest of “Let sleeping foreigners lie”…

2008 / 03 / 14 – 18:01 Top


One of the villages in county of Yuanyang was either selected or has the savvy [and I suspect it was the former] to charge tourists to wander its streets. Beside a particularly beautiful expanse of terraced rice paddies about halfway…

Read the rest of “Qingkou Inc.”…

2008 / 03 / 07 – 11:52 Top


Having got delayed for longer than we wanted to be in Kunming due to the whole of China shutting down to celebrate the Chinese New Year, Mary and I were itching to get away from all aspects of city life…

Read the rest of “In the terraces”…

2008 / 03 / 05 – 16:40 Top


For the record, here are the places I visited during my recent trip to the west of China: Yunnan The city of Kunming The county of Yuanyang The town of Xinjiezhen The village of Duoyishu The village of Qingkou Shilin—the…

Read the rest of “Three [and a bit] provinces in three [and a bit] weeks”…

2008 / 03 / 02 – 11:41 Top


We had more snowfall yesterday and the pavements and roads are still covered in icky dangerous ice and slush, and the novelty has long since worn off, so I’m upping sticks and getting out of here. Tomorrow morning—snow permitting of…

Read the rest of “Bye-bye blizzards, hello heat”…

2008 / 02 / 02 – 15:44 Top


As reported earlier this week [by myself and much of the world media], we’ve had a couple of flakes of snow. It couldn’t have come at a worse time of year: every year the Chinese Spring Festival holiday sees…

Read the rest of “Snow worries”…

2008 / 02 / 01 – 10:36 Top


The view from my bedroom window this afternoon. This is the first time we’ve had snow that actually settled since I moved here. Apparently, much like in London, it used to snow here most winters, but in recent years…

Read the rest of “Suzhou snow”…

2008 / 01 / 26 – 14:49 | Comment [1]Top


The Bookworm had the second of its regular quiz evenings last week, and for a special treat I presented the participants with a round of ten maths- or physics-based questions to provide some contrast to the fun they’d been having…

Read the rest of “Quizzical”…

2008 / 01 / 21 – 18:34 | Comment [4]Top


Late last year work began on the first of four planned underground lines in Suzhou, a huge construction job which I imagine is made even more difficult given the city’s extensive network of canals and generally chaotic roadways, especially in…

Read the rest of “Going underground”…

2008 / 01 / 21 – 10:39 | Comment [1]Top


After a couple of months of unseasonal blue skies and warm weather, winter has at last descended onto Suzhou, with a very foggy past week and drizzly rain throughout the days. The good news is: I have magically landed…

Read the rest of “I have the foggiest”…

2008 / 01 / 12 – 13:18 | Comment [2]Top


So it’s 2008 and I’m still in China. This year-long stay is now almost two-years long. Recently it’s again been time to decide what to do next, as my current work contract [and hence my residence visa] expire at the…

Read the rest of “01.01.08”…

2008 / 01 / 01 – 01:01 | Comment [3]Top


…a shiny new washing machine! One that isn’t possessed by evil spirits, sings a happy tune to me when it finishes a load, and even has a self-cleaning setting. [I’m a bit scared to use that particular setting in…

Read the rest of “On the third day of Christmas, my landlord gave to me…”…

2007 / 12 / 31 – 10:24 Top


I’m almost certain our washing machine isn’t supposed to be doing this: [View the possessed washing machine video on YouTube]…

Read the rest of “Our washing machine may possibly be a little bit possessed”…

2007 / 12 / 09 – 13:46 | Comment [3]Top


Last month I was treated by my nursery school to join them on a daytrip to Shanghai Wild Animal Park. Having had a pretty bad experience with the zoo back in Benxi, I was a little apprehensive, but thought that…

Read the rest of “Shanghai Wild Animal Park”…

2007 / 12 / 08 – 17:10 | Comment [1]Top


Every week I get treated to the wonder that is my kindergarten kids doing their morning dancercises. The music ranges from Twinkle, Twinkle, Little Star to a children’s version of We Will Rock You [“You’ve got mud on your face,…

Read the rest of “The highlight of my week”…

2007 / 11 / 25 – 09:37 | Comment [1]Top


And I just can't hide it. On display at kindergarten at which I teach, a whole generation of children will express their excitement through the medium of winks….

Read the rest of “I’m so excited”…

2007 / 10 / 28 – 10:57 | Comment [1]Top


Well what let-down that was! After the warnings, the evacuations, the class-cancellations [so not all bad news], what did we get here in Suzhou? The equivalent of an average rainy day in the west of Ireland. In the end,…

Read the rest of “Typhooey”…

2007 / 09 / 21 – 10:38 | Comment [3]Top


Since I’ve been back I’ve been teaching at a nursery school on Wednesday and Friday mornings, but tomorrow’s class has been cancelled … because the non-panic-inducingly-named Super Typhoon Wipha is set to lash the east coast of China over the…

Read the rest of “Typhoon”…

2007 / 09 / 18 – 15:22 | Comment [1]Top


One of my new teaching duties takes me about an hour out of Suzhou, to a technology company that insists I cover my filthy shoes with these fetching plastic socks….

Read the rest of “Clean feet”…

2007 / 09 / 18 – 11:32 | Comment [3]Top


I realise this place has built up a few cobwebs over the last six weeks or so, but I’ll be doing some dusting and hopefully back into the swing of things soon, including the return of the genuine, actually-posted-from-my-mobile Moblog,…

Read the rest of “Oh look, I’ve got a weblog”…

2007 / 09 / 18 – 02:53 | Comment [1]Top


So where’s all this rain I’ve been hearing about? Landed yesterday afternoon at Heathrow to blue skies and warm sunshine. I think you’ve been making it all up just get to me to come back….

Read the rest of “Englund”…

2007 / 08 / 02 – 11:04 | Comment [2]Top


One of my summer school students shows off his chimpanzee-in-a-car drawing for the camera. [View Madison and his drawing on YouTube]…

Read the rest of “Chimp”…

2007 / 07 / 27 – 23:05 Top


Longtou Shan—Dragon Head Hill—is a gorgeous little place. You make the gentle climb up through an orange orchard, with some other fruit trees such as the Chinese strawberry tree, locally called yangmei, dotted around the place for good measure,…

Read the rest of “Dong Shan”…

2007 / 07 / 25 – 22:40 Top


Just twenty miles or so west of Suzhou lies Tai Hu, the third largest lake in China, easily reached from Suzhou on the number 502 public bus from opposite the train station [well, it’s opposite the train station at the…

Read the rest of “Getting to Dong Shan”…

2007 / 07 / 22 – 13:54 Top


One of my colleagues cheered me up no end today—not that I was particularly grumpy, aside from the usual headache the kids at the summer school give me, but he gave me an extra boost in his attempt to make…

Read the rest of “Telepharce”…

2007 / 07 / 18 – 16:09 | Comment [1]Top


You might be thinking that, when embarking on a flat-hunting mission, choosing which agents to go with is a difficult step: after all, how can you really know which one is going to try and screw you over the least?…

Read the rest of “People like you are always generalising”…

2007 / 07 / 14 – 10:35 | Comment [2]Top


Find two lovely friends who want to share a flat with you for the next six months. Contact a few estate agents and give them your specific requirements—in this case: three bedrooms [due to there being three people], two…

Read the rest of “The Complete Guide to Flat-Hunting in Suzhou”…

2007 / 07 / 12 – 16:43 | Comment [3]Top


It took us a while to get started. The town of Jiuhua Shan is not very large, but its layout rather confused Rose and me; the maps on the various signposts didn’t seem to tally with the one we had…

Read the rest of “Jiuhua Shan [Part IIIb—Jiuhua Shan!]”…

2007 / 06 / 22 – 12:59 | Comment [1]Top


I had to buy this just to prove I didn’t make it up. I’m familiar with flypaper: the sticky sheets of paper one hangs up to trap annoying, potentially disease-spreading flies. Never used it myself, but I’ve seen it in…

Read the rest of “You sticky rat”…

2007 / 06 / 11 – 14:49 | Comment [5]Top


We were prepared for it to be busy: after all, we were visiting during the week-long national holiday, so virtually anywhere we might have chosen was going to be overflowing with tourists. My personal hope was, drawing from my experiences…

Read the rest of “Jiuhua Shan [Part IIIa—Arrival]”…

2007 / 06 / 06 – 12:37 Top


We only stayed in the capital of the province of Anhui for one night, so I can’t really comment in great detail on what it has to offer, but it was immediately apparent that the city was a lot less…

Read the rest of “Jiuhua Shan [Part II—Hefei City]”…

2007 / 06 / 02 – 13:34 | Comment [9]Top


A few weeks ago I travelled with my faithful companion Rose to Anhui, the province just west of my home province of Jiangsu, to visit a range of mountains known as Jiuhua Shan: Nine Glorious Peaks. Our route from…

Read the rest of “Jiuhua Shan [Part I—Taizhou]”…

2007 / 05 / 30 – 09:50 | Comment [2]Top


Walking home from teaching last night, it was already dark but a nice warm evening, and as I strolled along the road I heard faint music coming from the canalside. Looking over, I could see a lone elderly man sitting…

Read the rest of “Uneasy listening”…

2007 / 05 / 11 – 09:20 Top


Although “sandwish” is clearly a mistake, there’s a small chance that this trendy new coffee house really does have snake on the menu….

Read the rest of “Snake sandwish”…

2007 / 05 / 07 – 21:22 Top


One of my more enjoyable teaching duties is the weekly “English Corner”: a two-hour session open to the public, in which anyone wishing to practise speaking English can come along and talk with other like-minded people and three or four…

Read the rest of “Fanbase”…

2007 / 04 / 30 – 15:51 | Comment [2]Top


Floral stationary “floats” are appearing all over Suzhou, some with an Olympic theme, and some, like this one, a little bit creepy. Reminds me of the Stay Puff Marshmallow Man from Ghostbusters….

Read the rest of “Evil teapot”…

2007 / 04 / 26 – 08:27 | Comment [1]Top


In general, the teaching materials I’ve been provided with have been of a high standard; easy to teach from and well thought-out, but there’s one exception: I teach the employees of a five-star hotel twice a week, and the main…

Read the rest of “Never losing my temper on all occasions”…

2007 / 04 / 25 – 08:45 | Comment [1]Top


The rumours were true! After a last-ditch two-pronged-pincer-movement strike, I finally have my year-long Chinese work visa. The last few days of warfare went like this. Firstly, I called in reinforcements I had been reluctant to fall back on up…

Read the rest of “Visa victory”…

2007 / 04 / 18 – 17:06 | Comment [3]Top


There’s a rumour going round that my visa application has finally gone through, and that my passport now contains a valid working visa for the full year. I’m going to remain healthily dubious until I’ve seen it with my own…

Read the rest of “Whispers”…

2007 / 04 / 18 – 12:34 Top


Pineapple season has arrived, and they’re particularly delicious this year. For just 30p you get a whole pineapple carved into this pleasing shape for your eating pleasure. I’d like to take this opportunity to go on the record and…

Read the rest of “Pining”…

2007 / 04 / 17 – 08:40 | Comment [2]Top


Despite their dubious Special Offers signage, the Korean-owned Lai Bar in Suzhou is actually not a bad little place for a quiet drink….

Read the rest of “At least they wrote “every day” as two words”…

2007 / 04 / 16 – 17:23 Top


The part of Suzhou where I live goes by two names: to English-speakers it’s called SIP—Suzhou Industrial Park—which, for me, conjures bleak images of factories, vast warehouses and smoke-spilling chimneys. Contrarily, the Chinese name is Yuan Qu—Garden District—which sounds altogether…

Read the rest of “Bloomers”…

2007 / 04 / 12 – 08:47 Top


An hour’s bus ride out of Suzhou is the small historic water town of Luzhi. Just over a square kilometre in size, and dating back 1,400 years, it’s famed for its surviving small bridges and a Buddhist temple containing…

Read the rest of “Luzhi”…

2007 / 04 / 09 – 10:04 | Comment [4]Top


Whilst the Christian world gets on with all things Easter, this weekend saw the Chinese festival of Qingming Jie, which goes by any of the following translations: Clear Brightness Festival Festival for Tending Graves Grave Sweeping Day Memorial Day Tomb…

Read the rest of “Qingming Jie”…

2007 / 04 / 08 – 16:59 Top


Apparently it’s Easter weekend—I’d not realised until I started to receive a few e-cards and greetings. This is as eggy as I could manage at short notice: fried-egg sandwiches and a bowl of M&Ms….

Read the rest of “Egg-ish”…

2007 / 04 / 08 – 16:12 | Comment [1]Top


Check twice before entering……

Read the rest of “Doubly-sure?”…

2007 / 04 / 03 – 18:53 | Comment [2]Top


As if sensing that I’d not been inspired to post anything for ages, I’ve been gifted with a couple of interesting, “You don’t see that every day” type things. Presenting, firstly, the Men Painting a Building Hanging Precariously from Ropes…

Read the rest of “Stunted”…

2007 / 04 / 01 – 10:13 | Comment [4]Top


In an un-deliberate scheme to mar my St. Patrick’s Day celebrations, I was asked to swap my usual Sunday off work for another day and give a short, early morning demo class to twenty primary school students; the first half…

Read the rest of “Need-to-know basics”…

2007 / 03 / 19 – 16:33 Top


For the first few weeks after I arrived in China, whenever I overheard a couple of elderly gents chatting in Chinese on a park bench, I found myself assuming that they were exchanging pearls of wisdom garnered from their experiences…

Read the rest of “Atrophy”…

2007 / 03 / 19 – 08:22 Top


The saga of my visa and my previous company continues. To recap: to secure a full working visa related to my new job, I need a letter from my previous employer stating that I have left the company. That’s all…

Read the rest of “Empty threats”…

2007 / 03 / 08 – 15:37 | Comment [8]Top


One of the most fascinating things about the Terracotta Army is that, in their Chinese name Bing Ma Yong, according to my dictionary the last character 俑 translates as “earthen figures buried with the dead in ancient times”—isn’t it lucky…

Read the rest of “The Terracotta Army”…

2007 / 03 / 07 – 09:52 Top


Those of us of a certain age and nationality will fondly remember the classic Japanese kung-fu television treat that was Monkey Magic—the story of a Buddhist monk, Tripitaka, and his three mystical protectors, Monkey, Pigsy and Sandy, on a quest…

Read the rest of “The Temple of Grace”…

2007 / 03 / 06 – 09:05 Top


The Muslim Quarter, in the north-west of downtown Xi’an, is the place to go if you want to buy some nice-looking souvenirs, antiques and trinkets—from local crafts such as intricately-cut patterns in paper and jewellery, to novelty items such as…

Read the rest of “The Muslim Quarter and the museums”…

2007 / 03 / 04 – 11:44 Top


Xi’an and the surrounding area is positively brimming over with sites of historical importance, and it’s well worth spending a good few days visiting the city of you want to be sure to make the most of the places of…

Read the rest of “Xi’an city walls”…

2007 / 03 / 03 – 15:27 Top


Phew, I’ve scarcely finished writing about my last trip, but I’m about to head off on a semi-impromptu visit to Xi’an, home of the Terracotta Army and other historically important sights. As a special bonus I’ll get to hang out…

Read the rest of “No rest for the David”…

2007 / 02 / 21 – 10:06 Top


One of the lesser-known gems in Chengdu is Wang’s Tiny Museum of Mao Memorabilia. The name says it all: down a side street that I had to ask three people how to find despite having the address and a map,…

Read the rest of “Wang’s Tiny Museum of Mao Memorabilia”…

2007 / 02 / 20 – 12:09 Top


Right next door to the hostel I was staying at in Chengdu was the Buddhist temple of Wenshu Yuan; it is a Chan temple, Chan being the Chinese for what is more popularly known as Zen Buddhism. Although initial…

Read the rest of “Wenshu Yuan”…

2007 / 02 / 20 – 08:27 Top


Happy Chinese New Chinese New Year! Or, as everybody is saying around here, xīn nián kuài lè [新年快乐]. The fireworks started early yesterday afternoon, went on through the night and are still going strong today. I joined a thousand or…

Read the rest of “18.02.07”…

2007 / 02 / 18 – 13:48 | Comment [1]Top


One year ago today, I arrived in China. Gosh, that went by a bit quickly….

Read the rest of “Sinoversary”…

2007 / 02 / 17 – 15:51 | Comment [2]Top


Foolishly, I’d mentioned earlier to one of the other passengers on the bus how good the driver was: up in the mountains of Jiuzhaigou park the winding roads were still covered in snow, yet he managed to keep a steady…

Read the rest of “Round the bend”…

2007 / 02 / 16 – 10:12 | Comment [1]Top


Aside from the dominant Han Chinese nationality, there are 55 other officially-recognised minorities in modern China; the province of Sichuan is home to four of them, and the village of Taoping has been occupied by the Qiangzu people for around…

Read the rest of “Taoping”…

2007 / 02 / 15 – 10:00 Top


From my Google Calendar Daily Schedule email: David, here is your schedule for: Thu 15 Feb 2007 On holiday All Day Not just all day, Mister Google Calendar: for all of the next sixteen days. One week on, two weeks…

Read the rest of “Joy cometh in the inbox”…

2007 / 02 / 15 – 07:12 | Comment [1]Top


In typical in-at-the-deep-end style, I’ve been rather busy for my first couple of weeks with my new language centre, teaching children every morning and afternoon, and adults a couple of evenings a week—but thankfully it all comes to a dead…

Read the rest of “Candids”…

2007 / 02 / 12 – 21:47 | Comment [1]Top


My first couple of days at my new language school haven’t been too bad: just a couple of hours of preparatory work each day. My first teaching session is tonight, taking over a third of the way through a “Hotel…

Read the rest of “Days One and Two: so far so the same as ever”…

2007 / 02 / 06 – 12:55 | Comment [6]Top


In the mountains of northern Sichuan is the 720 square kilometre reserve of Jiuzhaigou. The name means “Valley of the Nine Villages”, after the nine high-fenced Tibetan settlements that originally populated the area. The 1000-or-so permanent residents of the…

Read the rest of “Jiuzhaigou National Park”…

2007 / 02 / 05 – 14:12 Top


If you’re currently in China, follow this easy sixteen-step guide to renewing a work visa. Secure a job; this could either be a renewal of your current contract or, as in my case, a new job. This latter situation is…

Read the rest of “How to renew your visa”…

2007 / 02 / 04 – 09:19 | Comment [2]Top


I made a few videos at the Panda Breeding Research Centre in Chengdu, the first of which shows two three-year-old giant pandas play-fighting in the cold morning air. [View the “Young pandas play-fighting” video on YouTube]…

Read the rest of “Panda-ing”…

2007 / 02 / 04 – 07:16 Top


It’s always the way isn’t it? There’s always one decoration you forget to take down—the sprig of holly over the painting in the spare room; the piece of tinsel around the cat’s collar; the Christmas candle behind the clock…

Read the rest of “February”…

2007 / 02 / 01 – 19:39 | Comment [1]Top


After spending a few days there at either end of my trip, I really warmed to Chengdu. The guidebooks and information I had read about the city all mentioned the laid-back approach that its citizens have to life, and it…

Read the rest of “Chengdu”…

2007 / 02 / 01 – 14:16 Top


Publically-displayed statue of a gurning gentleman enjoying using his “pestle & mortar” a little too much……

Read the rest of “I don’t think they really thought this statue through”…

2007 / 01 / 29 – 21:28 Top


Signs dotted around one of the restored, protected areas in Chengdu describe the following “Rules Pertaining to Civilized Tour”: In order to build a civilized and harmonious tour environment and to improve the moral standards of both tourists and…

Read the rest of “Citizenship”…

2007 / 01 / 29 – 09:31 | Comment [2]Top


I brought back some nice calming lavender-scented incense from Chengdu, and I’ve just noticed that on the package it says, in English, Ingredients: lavender oil, cedar wood, etc. “Etc.”?…

Read the rest of “And, you know, some other stuff”…

2007 / 01 / 26 – 13:56 | Comment [2]Top


Am back. I made it through Nanjing all the way to Chengdu without any problems, and did a whirlwind tour of the city and the north of the province of Sichuan, which were both excellent although rather cold. Right now…

Read the rest of “Chengdid”…

2007 / 01 / 25 – 15:53 Top


Let me outta here! Sorry about that, just had to yell to some extent. I’m over it now. I’d like to go to Chengdu. I’ve heard and read that it’s lovely, and I’ve been planning a two-week holiday there ever…

Read the rest of “Chengdon’t”…

2007 / 01 / 15 – 10:16 Top


Some of my primary school students taking their end-of-term English test. They all did really well, with six students scoring 98% and one achieving 100%! This could have been something to do with their Chinese teacher looking at their…

Read the rest of “Concentration”…

2007 / 01 / 14 – 08:44 Top


Having received my last full-time pay-cheque from my former company, the full cost of leaving their employment early has been revealed: equivalent to two months’ worth of rent, plus a passed-on fee for terminating the contract with the internet service…

Read the rest of “The price of teaching”…

2007 / 01 / 14 – 08:21 | Comment [3]Top


I had a nice treat last night, being taken out to dinner by a student who had just completed a marathon twenty-five-week one-to-one course with yours truly. He also brought along his wife, their daughter, and a colleague [with his…

Read the rest of “Chicken feet are my Everest”…

2007 / 01 / 07 – 10:28 | Comment [4]Top


I’d never even heard of it before I moved into my new flat, but I have since discovered that many of the posher kitchens here come equipped with one of these: a crockery and cutlery sterilising [and drying] cabinet…

Read the rest of “Baby, baby, baby, fight my germs”…

2007 / 01 / 04 – 16:06 | Comment [2]Top


So it’s 2007 and I’m still in China—I have to admit, a small part of me thought I wouldn’t stick around to see the New Year here, but I’m very glad I have done so. Without wanting to count my…

Read the rest of “01.01.07”…

2007 / 01 / 01 – 07:01 | Comment [2]Top


Around this time last year I volunteered for Crisis Open Christmas in London, helping out at the main homeless shelter, so it seems appropriate to mention what I’ve seen of the homelessness and begging problems here in Suzhou over the…

Read the rest of “Suzhou’s beggars”…

2006 / 12 / 31 – 21:38 Top


Maybe it’s just my sense of humour, but I can’t help reading this card in a deadpan, sarcastic manner….

Read the rest of “Sarcardsm”…

2006 / 12 / 21 – 05:28 | Comment [2]Top


In class this evening—teaching five Korean teenagers who all appear to be big fans of Premier League football—the topic was “unlucky people”, and I asked the class for examples of people they know of who had been unlucky. This, verbatim,…

Read the rest of “Tough Gigg”…

2006 / 12 / 19 – 21:44 | Comment [3]Top


Meanwhile, I’m earning some pocket money by still working at the company I earlier officially stopped working for on December 9th—as I’ve explained, during the notice period we reached a mutual agreement that I would finish off the courses that…

Read the rest of “Wayning”…

2006 / 12 / 18 – 20:59 | Comment [2]Top


I’ve been put in touch with a sort-of-recruitment agent to help me find a new teaching position, and after a couple of preliminary discussions it suddenly occurred to me that I should tell her where I’ve been working, so she…

Read the rest of “Hindsight is a wonderful thing”…

2006 / 12 / 17 – 21:20 | Comment [2]Top


A relatively painless move last weekend found me in my new [temporary] home, and it’s a lot nicer than my last place! Proper heating throughout [as opposed to a single electric radiator], comfy sofas [as opposed to hard wooden…

Read the rest of “New digs”…

2006 / 12 / 14 – 13:16 | Comment [5]Top


I attended the last stage of a Chinese wedding at the weekend—I say last stage because it’s pretty tough to attend the entire wedding ceremony, given that it’s spread over many months and the couples are officially married when the…

Read the rest of “My first Chinese wedding”…

2006 / 12 / 05 – 19:29 Top


One of the exhibits at last month’s Suzhou Institute of Art and Design’s FiberArt [sic] exhibition: all the works of art were made from fibre-based raw materials. Each of these hands were individually-knitted gloves….

Read the rest of “Lend us a…”…

2006 / 11 / 28 – 14:44 | Comment [1]Top


The next chapter in the saga of my employment in China. Having handed in my notice, I began trying to plan my next few months, specifically with regard to location, accommodation, vocation and communication. Communication Finally getting fed up with…

Read the rest of “Inform-ation”…

2006 / 11 / 21 – 17:32 | Comment [5]Top


Although it’s apparently been unseasonably warm for this time of year, the nights are at last getting colder as the darkness draws in earlier and earlier, and a good hot drink keeps the chills at bay. Of course there is…

Read the rest of “Getting into hot water”…

2006 / 11 / 20 – 14:48 | Comment [2]Top


Pub

Some mildly cool news: sometime next year I’ll have a few of my photos in print. I was recently contacted by picture researcher for the UK division of a well-known publisher, who had come across my silk factory photos…

Read the rest of “Pub”…

2006 / 11 / 17 – 21:47 | Comment [4]Top


Sorry, I didn’t mean to disappear into a pseudo-hiatus like that, I just lost the will to weblog for a while there. Let’s see if I can get back into the swing of things over the next week or so….

Read the rest of “Is this thing on?”…

2006 / 11 / 17 – 21:41 | Comment [1]Top


The cake for Tara’s surprise leaving party: chocolate icing, topped with grapes, kiwi fruit, peach, pineapple, pear, and … erm, tomato—garnished with a sprig of parsley. Okay, so tomato is technically a fruit [but not legally, at least in…

Read the rest of “Fruitcake”…

2006 / 10 / 30 – 14:21 | Comment [5]Top


Continuing my occasional reports on internet access in China: within the last week or so, the restriction of access to the English-language version of Wikipedia from China was lifted—whilst this is good news for me and other users who were…

Read the rest of “Wikipedia unblocked”…

2006 / 10 / 15 – 10:06 | Comment [3]Top


I handed in my notice at work yesterday, which went down like a lead balloon filled with a gas that has the exact opposite properties of helium. [Perhaps it is magnetised and strongly drawn to the Earth’s core? Hmm, can…

Read the rest of “Noticed”…

2006 / 10 / 11 – 10:32 | Comment [9]Top


After the disappointment of Ding Shan and Zhanggong Dong, I wanted to go somewhere I knew I’d enjoy, so I asked a few friends if they fancied taking a picnic lunch up to Hu Qiu. To make the day extra…

Read the rest of “Tiger Hill—revisited”…

2006 / 10 / 09 – 22:30 | Comment [1]Top


Just outside Ding Shan is a series of caves open to the public, the largest of which is Zhanggong Dong, set in a small park with the usual offerings of ponds, rocks and winding pathways. The caves would be a…

Read the rest of “Zhanggong Dong”…

2006 / 10 / 05 – 07:54 | Comment [6]Top


Allow me to quote from The Rough Guide to China: This obscure town has been producing pottery since the beginning of recorded history. Primitive unglazed pots have been found here which date back … some three thousand years. Ceramic lampposts…

Read the rest of “Ding Shan”…

2006 / 10 / 04 – 11:08 | Comment [1]Top


Tomorrow [October 1st] is China’s National Day—a day to remember that China is a nationally a nation, that its borders spread nationally all the way around the nation and, notionally, beyond. It is celebrated by giving most of the country…

Read the rest of “National Day”…

2006 / 09 / 30 – 09:47 | Comment [1]Top


In part prompted by a brief visit by my mother, I’ve visited a number of popular tourist sites in Suzhou over the last few weeks, which made a welcome change from the usual routine. Tiger Hill Hu Qiu is probably…

Read the rest of “Tourism”…

2006 / 09 / 28 – 16:14 Top


If only all shops could claim this. Oh wait, that wouldn’t actually be very useful, would it?…

Read the rest of “No need to haggle”…

2006 / 09 / 18 – 07:00 | Comment [4]Top


I’ve had a lot of positive feedback regarding my teaching lately; some courses have ended and questionnaires are given out in the last lessons to assess the performance of the teacher and the general service provided by my company. I’ve…

Read the rest of “Bonafeud”…

2006 / 09 / 11 – 09:43 | Comment [1]Top


To bridge the gap between the many different dialects in China, some [almost] universal hand gestures have developed to facilitate trade and bargaining by representing the numbers one to ten, which differ from the usual Western signs by using only…

Read the rest of “Counting with one hand”…

2006 / 09 / 06 – 09:17 | Comment [2]Top


Anyone of a sensitive disposition, look away now. Seriously, I’m going to talk about buying live chickens and watching them being killed, and there is a video. You have been warned….

Read the rest of “Fresh”…

2006 / 09 / 05 – 21:48 | Comment [1]Top


I realise this isn’t going to be pleasant reading, but I do feel that some guidebooks lack certain details for people about to embark on a short holiday to China [hello Mum!], and this particular area is something everyone should…

Read the rest of “Notes on Chinese public toilets”…

2006 / 09 / 05 – 11:21 | Comment [4] | Trackback [1]Top


Two of my favourite people in Suzhou are an Irish couple by the names of Tara and Seanan—I met Tara a few days after I arrived and she took me under her wing somewhat, inviting me to hang out at…

Read the rest of “Musoings”…

2006 / 09 / 02 – 18:30 | Comment [3]Top


Sometimes you just want some easy-to-make comfort food, like beans on toast. But do you want it enough to eat it using chopsticks? [Er. No, of course not. Luckily they do have knives and forks out here.]…

Read the rest of “The ultimate challenge”…

2006 / 08 / 25 – 22:32 | Comment [3]Top


There’s some pretty amazing technology available in the world today, but I’ve never heard of anything like the computer systems the Chinese must have developed to produce the pirate DVDs that are readily available in every city: they don’t just…

Read the rest of “DVD hee hee”…

2006 / 08 / 21 – 11:31 | Comment [1]Top


Time seems to have slipped away recently and I’ve gotten behind on writing about a couple of things, so here they are in abridged form. Doctored Completely slipping my mind until a copy of my certificate arrived in the post…

Read the rest of “Catching up”…

2006 / 08 / 19 – 09:19 | Comment [2] | Trackback [1]Top


We get some pretty impressive storms here in Suzhou, and yesterday’s was the most vigorous yet: throughout the day we had rolls of thunder, but it wasn’t until the evening that the skies opened. Within minutes the streets were like…

Read the rest of “Stormy weather”…

2006 / 08 / 17 – 14:09 | Comment [3]Top


On Monday morning my roommate and colleague for the last two months hung up his sunhat and headed home to Ireland, after a full year with my current employer and over thirty years of teaching abroad—not just in China,…

Read the rest of “And then [briefly] there was one”…

2006 / 08 / 16 – 15:35 | Comment [2]Top


Back in March I reported on certain restricted groups of websites [specifically, weblogs], blocked from viewing in China unless you used alternative means. At some point—and I can’t be certain how recently it was—someone somewhere decided to lift part of…

Read the rest of “Partial lifting”…

2006 / 08 / 14 – 21:20 | Comment [3] | Trackback [1]Top


Almost six months in, the last couple of weeks have been the lowest point of my time out here so far, in terms of homesickness. Whether I became ill because I was feeling down, or I started feeling down [in…

Read the rest of “The six-month dip”…

2006 / 08 / 07 – 16:07 | Comment [7]Top


Another first this week: my first being ill enough to visit a doctor. Actually, I wasn’t that poorly—just a standard case of manflu—but upon turning up to work looking suitably pathetic [headache, body-ache, fatigue, distinct “please cancel my classes” look…

Read the rest of “Chinese medicine”…

2006 / 07 / 28 – 18:47 | Comment [3]Top


One of the more popular gardens in Suzhou is Shizi Lin, in the north of the city. It’s a fairly large, and elaborately-designed area; originally laid out in 1342 by a monk in honour of his teacher, it is…

Read the rest of “Shizi Lin”…

2006 / 07 / 22 – 19:22 Top


My friend Tara’s flat is on the twentieth floor, offering some pretty decent views of the surrounding buildings….

Read the rest of “Vertigo”…

2006 / 07 / 21 – 13:28 | Comment [1] | Trackback [1]Top


Do the curly locks of the golf caddy on the left of the photo look vaguely familiar? That’s right, it’s none other than yours truly, helping out a clothes-designing friend of mine by being a clothes horse for her…

Read the rest of “Shooting the shoot”…

2006 / 07 / 19 – 15:31 | Comment [1]Top


Every year around this time, in London, Leicester and I’m sure many other places, we experience the phenomenon of Flying Ant Day, sending people scurrying into their homes, battening down the hatches, sealing the vents, and donning breathing apparatus until…

Read the rest of “Ants schmantz”…

2006 / 07 / 14 – 16:25 | Comment [1]Top


Teaching adults is a lot less work than teaching children—since coming to Suzhou, I’ve not had to raise my voice once, making for a much nicer feeling in my vocal chords at the end of an average day [the fact…

Read the rest of “Load”…

2006 / 07 / 07 – 13:26 | Comment [3]Top


This praying mantis-like insect suddenly appeared on my chest and started to crawl up towards my face as I tried to take his photo….

Read the rest of “Super-realistic brooches are all the rage here”…

2006 / 07 / 03 – 07:59 | Comment [3]Top


I’ve no reason for posting this photo aside from the slight resemblance that the water droplets have to a smile….

Read the rest of “Empty but happy”…

2006 / 06 / 26 – 23:57 | Comment [4]Top


I remember watching an interview with Keanu Reeves around the time that Speed came out, in which he was asked how he felt doing his own stunts—in particular, during the car-chase scenes. He said that the stunt coordinator had taken…

Read the rest of “Dodge City”…

2006 / 06 / 23 – 16:12 | Comment [3]Top


Long-term readers may recall my mild obsession with photographing the bats that flitted around my back garden in Leicester. The other day I almost had the opportunity for some close-quarter bat snaps. Coming home in the wee hours of the…

Read the rest of “Bat in the flat”…

2006 / 06 / 15 – 11:44 | Comment [3]Top


As I said, after a couple of hours of walking around the main streets of Suzhou in the rapidly-increasing heat, I was about to head back home when I noticed the entrance to one of the city’s renowned private gardens,…

Read the rest of “Canglang Ting”…

2006 / 06 / 11 – 09:15 | Comment [2]Top


Just over a week after arrived I was treated to my first day off work, and took the opportunity to see something of Suzhou other than my flat, my workplace or the supermarket. I’d been given a handy tourists’ map…

Read the rest of “Exploring Suzhou”…

2006 / 06 / 10 – 14:13 | Comment [3] | Trackback [1]Top


The train journey was utterly uneventful. Every time I looked out of the window, I saw nothing but farmland—seemingly every spare inch was given over to agriculture of some kind, be it genuine farms or wall-to-wall allotments behind every house….

Read the rest of “Hello Suzhou”…

2006 / 06 / 05 – 17:18 | Comment [2]Top


Due to being stuck on a train between cities, I unfortunately missed nearly all the fun of the annual Dragon-Boat Festival, held on the fifth day of the fifth lunar month of the Chinese calendar. However, I did get…

Read the rest of “Dragon-boat Festival”…

2006 / 06 / 04 – 02:01 Top


Long story short: I’ve quit my job and am moving to a new city in China tomorrow….

Read the rest of “Bye bye Benxi”…

2006 / 05 / 30 – 12:40 | Comment [10]Top


The local park has a small, free-of-charge zoo at its centre, and it’s utterly appalling. They have a lion, a tiger, a leopard, a camel [note the singular in all of these, for they have only one of each], a…

Read the rest of “Benxi Zoo”…

2006 / 05 / 29 – 08:15 | Comment [1]Top


Here’s Emma, my Chinese teacher [on the right], being taught how to conjour a bottle opener through a loop of string. The waitress at one of our local haunts knows plenty of card tricks and illusions, and usually only…

Read the rest of “Tricky”…

2006 / 05 / 27 – 01:28 Top


A day-trip to the mountain of Feng Huang Shan [鳳凰山—Phoenix Mountain] proved one of my most enjoyable experiences since I came out here. It’s a two-hour train ride from Benxi and, at this time of year, is relatively tourist-free but…

Read the rest of “Feng Huang Shan”…

2006 / 05 / 20 – 21:38 | Comment [1]Top


Our initial attempt to visit the border with Russia ended in partial failure: we were indeed taken to a border crossing by a taxi driver, but it was the purely functional one for immigration and import/export purposes—entirely uninteresting, tourist-wise. However,…

Read the rest of “At the Russian border”…

2006 / 05 / 17 – 13:34 | Comment [1]Top


Having befriended a quite crazy local cab driver willing to take us far and wide, we went to Dalai Hu—about an hour’s drive south of Manzhouli—and were surprised to discover that, despite the recent warm weather, the lake was still…

Read the rest of “Dalai Lake”…

2006 / 05 / 16 – 12:53 | Comment [1] | Trackback [1]Top


Visiting the city of Manzhouli was a strange experience. Sitting right on the border with Russia and being the main thoroughfare for both people and goods between the two countries in this region, the streets and restaurants are overrun with…

Read the rest of “Manzhouli”…

2006 / 05 / 14 – 20:09 Top


2006 / 05 / 10 – 03:07 | Comment [2]Top


The journey to Manzhouli ended up being a twenty-hour train ride from Shenyang, and initially it looked as though we were going to be standing all the way there. As we squeezed our way onto one of the carriages, the…

Read the rest of “Getting there”…

2006 / 05 / 08 – 09:00 | Comment [3] | Trackback [1]Top


Off I go to Manzhouli. Photos and details upon my return!…

Read the rest of “The ordeal begins”…

2006 / 04 / 29 – 15:15 Top


Since we have a whole seven days off work, starting tomorrow night, Alan and I thought it might be fun to get out of the city for a while and head north, up to Manzhouli—the city where I was originally…

Read the rest of “Shenyanged”…

2006 / 04 / 27 – 13:38 | Comment [3]Top


Continuing my efforts to traverse the stairs of my block of flats in not total darkness, tonight I decided on a different strategy: knowing that, on occasion at least one hand would be occupied with carrying shopping, I thought that…

Read the rest of “Clickety-crack”…

2006 / 04 / 25 – 23:24 | Comment [1]Top


Recently I’ve been lucky enough to befriend a local primary school teacher, and yesterday she invited a group of foreigners to visit her school, to get a flavour of what a proper Chinese class is like….

Read the rest of “School visit”…

2006 / 04 / 20 – 09:36 | Comment [1]Top


I’m about ready to submit an article to The Lancet, describing a previously-unreported but widespread medical condition that I’ve dubbed “Benxi Knee”. In many of the blocks of flats here, the stairwells are illuminated by sound-activated lights; there are no…

Read the rest of “B’s Knees”…

2006 / 04 / 17 – 18:41 | Trackback [1]Top


Thanks to Sarah and Ade, my Easter wasn’t entirely chocolate-egg-free [and their healthy contribution to David’s Jaffa Cake Appeal was most welcome too]….

Read the rest of “Easter Sinoday”…

2006 / 04 / 17 – 09:30 Top


The middle of April, Easter weekend, and it snowed! A good couple of hours’ worth of fairly heavy fall, which settled on the trees and rides at the local park, making for a pleasant if surreal walk back from lunch—I’ve…

Read the rest of “Surely Bing never dreamt of this?”…

2006 / 04 / 15 – 21:35 | Comment [2]Top


With the weather warming up [that is, above zero for most of the day], more and more people are spending their time outdoors—men sitting chatting with friends, women singing together, both playing cards, or, like the people I snapped out…

Read the rest of “Chinese Chess”…

2006 / 04 / 14 – 19:20 Top


A group of us foreign types took a hike up the highest of the mountains surrounding Benxi: Pingding Shan [平頂山, Flat Top Mountain]. We cheated by taking a short bus journey to the outskirts of the city, which rises part…

Read the rest of “Pingding Shan”…

2006 / 04 / 14 – 13:43 Top


These are the typical sizes one uses out here. But which one is more unlike its Western cousins?…

Read the rest of “Enormous bottle or tiny glass?”…

2006 / 04 / 07 – 13:37 | Comment [7]Top


It’s traditional for Chinese students choose their own English names when starting to attend language classes; even though it’s a shame they think Westerners would have no chance of correctly pronouncing their given names, I’ll admit that it does make…

Read the rest of “The name game”…

2006 / 04 / 06 – 10:57 | Comment [4]Top


Thanks to Felicity, I am once again Jaffa Caking myself into oblivion….

Read the rest of “Jaffas!”…

2006 / 04 / 03 – 07:44 | Comment [4]Top


One of the benefits of teaching the younger classes is that I can play lame April Fools jokes on them and they actually fall for them. Okay, so I just walked into each of my morning lessons and proceeded to…

Read the rest of “April Foolishness”…

2006 / 04 / 01 – 18:43 | Comment [2]Top


The main event of the day was a visit to the Imperial Palace of the Qing Dynasty. The following is taken from the information sign on display at the main entrance: The Imperial Palace in Shenyang was the founding base…

Read the rest of “Daytrip to Shenyang—the Imperial Palace of the Qing Dynasty”…

2006 / 03 / 31 – 20:49 Top


After grabbing a quick snack of baozi [steamed dumplings], our first stop was the enormous statue of Mao Zedong, situated in the centre of a huge roundabout since 1969. With his arm raised in gentle salute, he almost looks as…

Read the rest of “Daytrip to Shenyang—ni hao, Chairman Mao”…

2006 / 03 / 31 – 19:17 | Comment [2]Top


I used up one of my valuable days off this week to take a day-trip to Shenyang, the capital of the Liaoning Province. Catching an early-morning train meant I was able to gawk at the many dozens of people practising…

Read the rest of “Daytrip to Shenyang—the train ride”…

2006 / 03 / 31 – 10:15 | Comment [2]Top


I wonder if it follows you around, silently purifying the air moments before you take a lungful?…

Read the rest of “Could be handy in cities like this”…

2006 / 03 / 29 – 02:06 Top


A very surreal teaching experience today: my students were reading aloud from a short play in the set text I have to teach them. The scene was: an English lesson, in which one of the students was Japanese, with phonetically-written…

Read the rest of “Meta-teaching”…

2006 / 03 / 26 – 18:58 Top


It’ll be interesting to see what happens here come the beginning of April, when a five percent tax on disposable [wooden] chopsticks will be introduced, to try and reduce the burden on natural resources and encourage the use of re-usable,…

Read the rest of “For the chop?”…

2006 / 03 / 25 – 21:59 | Comment [2]Top


So that I can associate the name with the dish and get better at ordering what I want, I’m trying to take photos of the food I have in our local restaurants. So far I have remembered to do…

Read the rest of “Hóng shaō tǔ dòu”…

2006 / 03 / 23 – 14:01 | Comment [1]Top


Spitting is a problem. The men spit. The women spit. The children spit. Everybody spits. They spit as they walk down the street, noisily building up a good collection of phlegm in the back of their throat before unashamedly phlomming…

Read the rest of “[Don’t] spit it out”…

2006 / 03 / 23 – 12:12 | Comment [3]Top


Today I needed to transfer some of my hard-earned cash to my UK bank account via the Bank of China, so I thought I’d list what information one needs to provide in order to fill out their form, for anyone…

Read the rest of “How to transfer money from China to a UK bank account”…

2006 / 03 / 22 – 19:06 Top


“Wài guó rén!” “Lǎo wài!” I hear them whisper it everywhere I go: “Foreigner!” Benxi is a city of a million and a half people, of which fewer than a hundred are non-Chinese, so as you might imagine, despite our…

Read the rest of “Contesting stares”…

2006 / 03 / 21 – 21:42 | Comment [1]Top


Further ingratiating myself with the locals, I spent an hour at a bathhouse today: a large, clean room lined with showers, with a hot tub and sauna at one end, and two massage tables in the centre. You begin with…

Read the rest of “Scrubbers”…

2006 / 03 / 20 – 21:58 | Comment [2]Top


The perfect St. Patrick’s Day present: a nicely-timed parcel containing delicious Irish tea, courtesy of my Dad. And it appeared to be un-tampered-with en route too. Yes, yes, I know, sending tea to China—I believe he’s shipped some coals…

Read the rest of “It’s not Barry’s, it’s mine”…

2006 / 03 / 18 – 20:37 | Comment [2]Top


Aside from the worrying vistas, I took some more pleasing [at least, to my eye] shots on my recent walkabout. [More of a walk-up-and-down actually, since it mostly involved climbing lots of stairs.] This is the long stretch of steep…

Read the rest of “Photos from my walkabout”…

2006 / 03 / 16 – 21:55 Top


It’s the tones that kill me. I can handle the fact that, early on, there are simply a lot of words to memorise. It’s to be expected—in all languages, to get any kind of grip on the basics, you just…

Read the rest of “Learning the language [beginnings]”…

2006 / 03 / 16 – 20:23 | Comment [3] | Trackback [1]Top


On one of the clearer days I’d experienced since arriving, I walked up to one of the local hill-top parks to get my first real view of the city I now call home. It was quite an eye-opener. Although I…

Read the rest of “Cityscapes”…

2006 / 03 / 15 – 21:09 | Comment [1] | Trackback [1]Top


I made a new friend whilst walking back from a restaurant the other week. A young Chinese man, he caught me up as I was attempting not to slip on the icy pavement, and said [in English], “Hello, can I…

Read the rest of “A new friend”…

2006 / 03 / 15 – 20:14 Top


If you’re a Blogger user and have noticed a sudden drop-off in my daily visits to your site [i.e. down to zero], do not be offended: it is merely because all Blogger-hosted weblogs are blocked from view out here. The…

Read the rest of “Restrictions”…

2006 / 03 / 11 – 21:05 | Comment [4] | Trackback [2]Top


Walking home from school the other day, having finished for the day before my colleagues, I popped into Mama & Baba’s, our local hang-out, to see if any of the other foreigners were around. Mildly disappointingly, none was to be…

Read the rest of “Baba’s misunderstanding”…

2006 / 03 / 08 – 22:55 | Comment [6]Top


The sign on the left is pretty obvious: no heavy trucks. Likewise, the sign in the middle, whilst possibly first being interpreted as “no bugling”, can soon be figured out: no car-horn honking. But sign number three? “No driving…

Read the rest of “Mysterious roadsigns”…

2006 / 03 / 07 – 14:19 Top


There is one particular student I teach, a young girl by the [chosen, English] name of Mary, whose voice is, for some reason, especially grating. There is something about the pitch, or the volume, or the pace at which she…

Read the rest of “Kids can be cruel [#1]”…

2006 / 03 / 06 – 22:08 | Comment [1]Top


The students here often give their teachers gifts; the other day I got my first, only a week into the job. I must be doing something right. Or, looking at it again, perhaps I’m doing it all utterly wrong….

Read the rest of “My first gift”…

2006 / 03 / 03 – 14:09 Top


The question on at least one person’s lips is: why did I choose to come to China? And the short answer is: *shrug* why not? The slightly-longer answer goes something like this. Towards the end of my Ph.D. I was…

Read the rest of “Why am I here?”…

2006 / 03 / 03 – 07:09 | Comment [3]Top


I can’t quite believe I’ve been here for two weeks already—everything has been both entirely vivid and a complete blur—and because I’ve not really said so explicitly yet, I should clear up precisely where “here” is: I am not, as…

Read the rest of “First fortnight”…

2006 / 03 / 02 – 21:38 Top


The food here is, on the whole, delicious: sticky sweet and sour pork; spicy chicken with peanuts; pickled cabbage and pork; sweet and sour aubergine with sesame seeds and green chillis; dumplings galore—I could go on. The only trouble is,…

Read the rest of “Chinese food: here it’s just called “food””…

2006 / 03 / 01 – 13:14 | Comment [4]Top


Here they start counting age from one—that is, as soon as a child is born, it is one year old. The upshot of this is, as far as the locals are concerned, I am thirty years old. Bugger….

Read the rest of “Milestone missed”…

2006 / 02 / 27 – 22:06 | Comment [3]Top


It appears someone left the window open….

Read the rest of “Not just draughty”…

2006 / 02 / 27 – 11:05 Top


I now have a broadband connection in my apartment. After a week on a dodgy, unsecure wireless connection that was so temperamental I actually pencilled lines onto my desk to ensure I always placed my laptop in the one and…

Read the rest of “Got myself connected”…

2006 / 02 / 27 – 10:11 | Comment [3]Top


The China Eastern Airlines flight from London to Shanghai was surprisingly empty; not only did I have two seats to myself, but if I’d wanted to, I could have moved into the middle of the ‘plane and stretched out across…

Read the rest of “The flight”…

2006 / 02 / 26 – 10:33 Top


Just wanted to say that I’ve made it as far as Shanghai without problems, and am currently killing time with the help of a free wif-fi connection before my connecting flight to Shenyang. Ain’t technology great?…

Read the rest of “Shanghai blogging”…

2006 / 02 / 17 – 09:42 | Comment [3]Top


And 5kg under the weight limit too….

Read the rest of “Packed!”…

2006 / 02 / 16 – 14:00 | Comment [1]Top


Ever have one of those mornings where you wake up and realise you’re emigrating to China later that day? Eep!…

Read the rest of “Dawning”…

2006 / 02 / 16 – 07:15 | Comment [6]Top


There is a city in north-east China named Manzhouli, and virtually everything I know about it is from the current Wikipedia entry: It was settled at the turn of the twentieth century as the first stop within China along…

Read the rest of “Everything I know about Manzhouli”…

2005 / 12 / 20 – 17:03 | Comment [4] | Trackback [1]Top