Fuddland

Aside from the five spent out in the Yungas, my days [or rather, our days, as I was travelling with my friend Jo] were largely broken up into two main parts: during the daylight hours, we would go on a hike somewhere just out of town, or wander around the plaza checking out the cathedral and various monuments to people we’d never heard of, or something equally touristy; but come eight o’clock or so, we’d either find a decent restaurant and order two enormous steaks and a bottle of red wine, or we’d buy some ingredients [usually two enormous steaks and a bottle of red wine] and cook back at the hostel.

With apologies to all vegetarians reading — skip to the next paragraph if you like, there’s talk of booze to be found — the steaks in northern Argentina are, hands down, the best I’ve ever had. Thick, thick rump steak [called bife de chorizo, but nothing to with the spicy sausage], but oh so tender. I usually prefer my steak cooked medium-to-well done, but seemingly no matter what you ask for, they generally deliver it at least a little bit bloody, and I found that didn’t mind this one bit, the meal was so delicious. And when it costs somewhere between two and three pounds for an inch-thick steak that would cover my face were I to lie on my back and place its centre on my nose [after waiting for it to cool down of course], it was all I could do to not ask the waiter if they had some kind of beef surplus and were desperately trying to rid themselves of a meat mountain. The downside to all of this is the inevitability of my gradually ceasing to be invited out to dinner by my friends, as they grow tired of me commenting incredulously on the inferior quality and exorbitant prices of the food in this, my home country.

And what better to wash down these amazing steaks [oops, sorry veggies, I forgot I’m not supposed to mention those delicious slices of beef that I sampled almost daily last month], than a good bottle of red wine? I’m not going to pretend I know my Shiraz from my Syrah, but I know the difference between a wine that’s just drinkable and a wine that’s a pleasure to drink, and in my extensive experience all but the very cheapest bottles [and we’re talking seventy UK pennies from the supermarket] in Argentina lie in the regions some way above just drinkable. Pay a quid and a half or more and you’re pretty much guaranteed a nice accompaniment to your steak. [Sorry! To your nut-roast.]

I spent one particularly enjoyable evening with two ladies I’d met at the hostel [an Australian and an American] whilst Jo decided to have a quiet night, sampling a couple of bottles at a deserted little bar with hand-made wooden tables and a very friendly [but not over-friendly] owner on the outskirts of a town called Cafayate. I liked the quiet, relaxed environment so much that I recommended to Jo that we go there on our last night, when of course the rest of the town decided to do the same thing, meaning the owner was fairly rushed off his feet and we had to sit on plastic patio furniture rather than at sturdy wooden tables. But the wine was still good so I didn’t care one jot.

Now, does anyone know how to get rid of a month’s worth of red-wine-tongue? I bet chewing down a good steak would work.

#1

Lucky | 2005 / 12 / 06 – 13:05

How come only the vegetarians get apologies? What about those of us who don’t drink wine?!

OK. I mean, what about the one of me that doesn’t drink wine?

#2

David | 2005 / 12 / 06 – 13:15

Re #1: It’s you who should apologise to the people of Argentina, for shunning their delicious creations. :P

#3

Daisy | 2005 / 12 / 06 – 15:52

Lucky, I’m similarly offended at not being proffered an apology. But I’ll let it go, just this once ;-)

#4

Sherri | 2005 / 12 / 07 – 06:01

Hair of the Dog. That’s how one might rid oneself of a month’s worth of red-wine-tongue.

Or at least it’s a good excuse, if you require one, to drink more.

#5

Lucky | 2005 / 12 / 07 – 13:38

Re #2: It’s the people of Argentina who should apologise to me for expecting me to drink their wine when doing so could cause major problems for my health!

Re #3: Hooray! I’m not alone!

#6

Richard | 2005 / 12 / 07 – 23:45

To cure red-wine-tongue, you must drink white wine for a month.

#7

David | 2005 / 12 / 08 – 10:06

Re #6: In that case, I think I’ll just keep the red wine tongue. I like the odd glass of white every now and then, but couldn’t drink it for a month. :P

#8

Jann | 2005 / 12 / 08 – 15:04

Re #6: Continuously? Can one stop for weeing breaks, naps etc.

#9

kazza | 2005 / 12 / 10 – 03:30

mmmmmmmmmmmm MEAT!! :):):)

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